Friday, November 21, 2008

The Importance of Life as a Jew with the Men of Sayeret Maglan

Day 154 Abroad: The Morning of My 21st Birthday

As I briskly travel the empty streets of Paris, France to my local metro station at the fresh hour of 7:30 a.m., the sky’s water-colored morning light of patterned reds and oranges slips a snug smile on my face. Today is my 21st birthday and I cannot help but be thankful for another year of life as a Jew, especially as the only granddaughter of Holocaust survivors. It would be selfish of me though to shape the day’s uniqueness solely upon my birthday, as truthfully, this day has a further purpose. In another arrondissement, the still youthful, demobilized Israeli Defense Force platoon of Maglan is stirring with the rising sun. These men will be spending the entire day in the magical fantasy world where ‘dreams come true’ of Disneyland Resort Paris. How do I fit into this odd occurrence of subjects and events? I welcome you to join me in my journey abroad, for this memoir can only form coherently through our conjoining travels.

Though a foreigner in Israel for three months, I was most definitely not a stranger. Life in the Holy Land, where I spent the majority of time residing in Jerusalem, was cozy as a Jew possessing a huge Israeli family and a love for the people of the land. For most Israelis, there is nothing unique about the constant encirclement of Jews in their lives (in fact it might even get on their nerves). For a Jew from the Diaspora though, immersing oneself in Israeli society is almost overwhelming, yet in the most positive of senses. It is simply wonderful to fathom so many Jews existing in one place.

Leaving Israel in late August to study abroad in Paris was not as natural. The transition from an atmosphere with such a blatant openness towards self-identity to an environment whose citizens much rather keep personal effects at bay shook my very core and altered my personnel necessities. I needed to find a Jewish congregation to surround myself with and to hear Hebrew; I needed to sport my Star-of-David necklaces and favorite Chamsah earrings; I needed all of my French teachers and peers to understand exactly why it was obligatory for me to situate my classes around the Friday night and High Holiday services schedule. With pride and boldness, I would simply state in French, “Je suis juif”, which translates to, “I am a Jew”.

Day 152 Abroad: Meeting the Men of Maglan

After persistent research, I finally discover a Jewish community in Paris that suites my every imaginable wish. The French-Anglophone Jewish Congregation of Kehilat Gesher, to “bridge the gap”, is an intimate community attended by loving and caring families and individuals of all harmonies. The unprecedented kindness and gigantic prospects for the well-being of the Jewish community of Paris and world Jewry radiates through the congregation’s every outreach program and prayer. To say the least, I am immediately ‘adopted’ by Kehilat Gesher’s diverse family and become one of their own, as if I never belonged anywhere else.

It is a Friday evening in Paris and the wind sighs a wintery breath on nearly undressed trees. I quickly cut street corners as my legs race methodically to Friday night services. With blaring iPod earpieces, confident dark blue eyes, and a sauntering soft scarf curving around my neck, my nervousness is tactically hidden. This commencing Shabbat, I am to meet the 14 men of Maglan, who are attending a special workshop program sponsored by Kehilat Gesher’s ‘Tikkun Olam’ committee. Besides providing an opportunity to explore Paris, the workshop mainly focuses on the platoon’s service in the IDF and what becomes of life after the army. One of the more lighthearted aspects to the program is the scheduled day in the fun-filled world of Disneyland Resort Paris, where I, as the foreigner, will be joining them as a representative from the Kehilat Gesher community. This day also happens to be my 21st birthday.

Many questions race through my mind whilst I travel to the modest headquarters of Kehilat Gesher. “Will they view me as a stranger or as a foreigner like themselves?” “Will they genuinely celebrate my 21st birthday?” “Will they view me as the little sister who always seems to tag along or as a 21 year old who deserves respect?” The two most significant questions are unfortunately the most persistent. “How will these men, who have experienced the darker side of life as IDF soldiers from the Second Lebanon War, find their innocent, imaginative selves in the land of Mickey Mouse and Company?” “How can I express to them that it is ok, with barely 21 years of sheltered life as a figure of experience?” As I cut my last street corner, I can already see in the dim-light of the sweet evening a group of men in the distance with lit cigarette buds; I know it is them.

Swiftly passing by the group of men by the door who, at this point, cease to converse, I try to become invisible in order to observe my ‘new friends’. As I sit myself down in the back of the congregation and watch the men stroll to available seats, each one is already acquiring a specially assigned name in my mind (which is not to be confused with the fact that I had already memorized their real names during my French classes that week). I begin to study their comradeship, the way the Siddur sits in their hands, the sounds of their deep voices in song, and their posture during various prayers of importance. Some subconsciously tap their feet to the cascades in melody. Two seem to be resting on each other rather contently. A few clap to the beat every now and then. I vibrantly sing and pay more attention to my Hebrew pronunciation, for I secretly hope that they might hear me and realize that I am an impassioned Jew in a foreign country, too.

With the conclusion of services, a collective buzz of Hebrew vibrates throughout the room and proceeds to the Kiddush. I meditatively watch the expressions on the Israelis’ faces while they interact amongst themselves and with those of the Kehilat Gesher community. There is an abundance of laughter, joking, and playfulness, alongside maturity, seriousness, and deference. They have experienced a part of life that I will never be able to fully comprehend and yet, they appear to be perfectly normal Jewish boys. Their resilience is so brilliant. After an enjoyable Kiddush and a few awkward introductions, I say good-bye to the men of Maglan for the time being, until our plans to meet for breakfast and our trip to Disneyland Paris in two days to come on my 21st birthday.

Day 154 Abroad: A Full Circle Return to the Morning of My 21st Birthday

As my metro car descends underground in journey to have breakfast with the men of Maglan, I confidently believe that this perfect dawn at 7:35 a.m. is an intimate sign. It foretells of an unforgettable birthday shared with those from the land that I utterly miss. And despite not being able to spend my 21st birthday with my loved ones back home, I will be surrounded by those who understand the importance of life as a Jew. Who could ask for a better present than that?

Conclusion: Shoshana spent her entire 21st birthday with the men of Maglan at the Disneyland Resort Paris and enjoyed every second of it, from receiving multiple serenades of the ‘Happy Birthday’ song in Hebrew and joining ‘the Magician’, ‘the Guide’, ‘the French Beret’, ‘the Photographer’, and ‘the Hopeful Husband’ on almost every rollercoaster ride, despite her ability to develop motion sickness easily. Luckily, the one with ‘the Warm Brown Eyes’ sat next to her on every dropping, twisting, and twirling ride, so the motion sickness was quite mild in the end anyway.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Election Night in Paris Part II



And with a final calm resting upon our fate as people of the world, we rediscover a forgotten energy of the most natural form.




An individual of the greatest stature has instilled in us, once again, this euphoria of life as human beings: hope




And with this HOPE, a new world for us all finally springs to life...

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Election Night and PB&J in Paris

Peanut-Butter and Jelly sandwiches are my comfort food. I just ate two of them and dropped raspberry jelly just about everywhere. Today/Tonight is the United States presidential election 2008. I am nervous and fidgety. After two years of waiting, the world will finally receive an answer.